Portobello's Public Parks

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 02 Dec 2006, 13:58

I have found around 200 references to Portobello's public parks in the Scotsman digital archive. I restricted my searches to Abercorn Park, Brighton Park, Figgate Park, Joppa Quarry, Portobello Park and Rosefield Park. Many other references that I had hoped to incorporate from other sources were lost when I attempted to transfer data between computers.

So don't expect a rathbone-scale magnus opus but just a few interesting facts I have been able to find. If anyone has amendments, corrections or further information please get in touch.

As with rathbone's 'On The Beach' project, I will be publishing in bite-size chunks and in chronological order.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 02 Dec 2006, 14:35

The first reference I was able to find to a public park in Portobello dates from 4 June 1860 in a report of the official opening of the Prince of Wales Promenade on Saturday 2 June. A banquet held at the Commercial Hotel in Bath Street that evening was attended by Provost Johnston and many other local dignitaries, during the course of which Sheriff Logan made mention of an 'ornamental garden' which a certain Mr Smellie was in the process of constructing,

which, when finished, would add another most attractive feature to the many amenities of Portobello.

Mr Smellie had paid the sum of Â£400 for the land in question and spent a further Â£800 on its design, laying out paths, planting shrubs, trees and enclosing it with a low wall surmounted with railings. A fountain stood at the centre of the park. For several years thereafter it rejoiced under the unfortunate name of the Smellie Park.

By the summer of 1862 Mr Smellie was opening his park on Thursday afternoons to the general public, to be entertained by the Scots Greys military band at the owner's expense.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 02 Dec 2006, 18:20

On Saturday, 15 July 1865, long before Joppa Quarry became a public park, it offered an interesting excursion for the Edinburgh Geological Society. The seams of fireclay, sandstone, shale and impure limestone contained few fossils, however, and there were no finds of note on this occasion.

The summer of 1866 witnessed a series of concerts in Smellie Park by the Queen's Own Hussars. A meeting was held on 23 July in the Town Hall of proprietors of Brighton Place, East and West Brighton Crescents, Sandford Street, and Rosefield Place. The trustees of Mr Smellie were prepared to sell the park to them for the sum of Â£500. A builder was also interested in purchasing the park with the intention of erecting a villa therein.

The sale was agreed. Those residing in Brighton Place and Crescent would pay five shillings per pound on their rental, while other residents would pay at the rate of two shillings and sixpence. Each subscriber would be furnished with a key and would be entitled to

a share in the ground for all time coming.

The inauguration of Brighton Park took place on 18 June 1867, with the 14th King's Hussars providing a selection of fashionable music. The Scotsman noted that 'the day was remarkably fine, and a large assemblage of ladies and gentlemen attended the promenade.' These open-air musical promenades, held alternately in Brighton Park and at the Sands, were very popular at the time.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 03 Dec 2006, 12:30

In 1871 it was proposed to create a new bowling green in Portobello. Brighton Park was considered as one of two possible sites before Lee Crescent was chosen in its place.

The Good Templars of Leith, Portobello and Musselburgh held a well-attended fete in Brighton Park on Saturday, 26 August 1876. As they enjoyed their pic-nic they were addressed by a series of speakers on the evils resulting from intemperance.

On Saturday, 5 July 1879 the number of visitors to Portobello was estimated at between ten and fifteen thousand. While most headed toward the beach, many got no further than Brighton Park where they danced to the recently formed Portobello Trades Band. Subscriptions from local residents hadn't raised quite enough and so a series of such open-air entertainments was proposed over the coming weeks to cover the debt on their musical instruments.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 05 Dec 2006, 18:26

On 22 August, 1879 Robert Dickson and Alexander Shields pled guilty to stealing two and a half hundredweight of iron railings from Joppa Quarry, the property of the Benhar Coal Company Ltd. They were each sentenced to 2 months imprisonment.

The Portobello Horticultural Society held its annual event in two large marquees in Brighton Park on Saturday, 20 August 1881. In spite of heavy rain and a backward season, the show was considered to be the best in years. Competition was keen in all sections, vegetables in particular. There were also excellent displays of fuschias, geraniums, roses and marigolds.

In February of 1888 the sale of Lynedoch House in Elcho Terrace describes the house as being opposite Abercorn Park, while in 1890 no. 5 John Street is advertised as having joint right to the park.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 05 Dec 2006, 19:58

Brighton Park has witnessed quite a variety of events over the years. On Saturday, 29 June 1895 it was a political demonstration. The local Liberal Unionists and the Conservative Association were out in force with prospective MPs, ex-Provosts and councillors in attendance and much discussion on the topic of Home Rule.

Thereafter, they enjoyed refreshments and were entertained by the Portobello Brass Band.

On Saturday, 4 April of the following year the 1st Portobello Company of the Boys Brigade assembled in the park to be inspected by Colonel Wauchope C.B C.M.G. His wife presented awards for good attendance.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 17 Dec 2006, 18:16

In August the Colonel was back to open the Grand Flower Show in Brighton Park. On this occasion the brass band of Leith Industrial School provided the entertainment.

On 17 June 1896 the Portobello Ladies Golf Club played a competition on Portobello Park. Three rounds of the six hole course were played. Mrs Crawford took first prize with a card of 89, while the best individual round went to Miss Simpson with a score of 28.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 17 Dec 2006, 18:39

Following the amalgamation with Edinburgh, Councillor Balfour was appointed as Park Ranger in Portobello. His decision to prohibit the game of golf after 1pm on Saturdays, under a penalty of 40 shillings, did not sit well with Mr Titterton, who wrote to complain about the new rule in a letter to the Scotsman on 8 July 1897.

The author of a follow-up letter was in agreement. There wasn't room for both golf and cricket and it wasn't fair that the golfers should have to make way. The cricketers were only boys after all. Another contributor to the debate blamed beginners at the game from Edinburgh and their 'erratic driving' for the imposition of the one o'clock rule.

In any case, Portobello Park was not considered to be the best site for a permanent park, an area between Morton Street and Magdalene Bridge being favoured for a links course with room for football and cricket.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 17 Dec 2006, 22:04

By 1897 the annual flower show in Brighton Park was now referred to as an exhibition of the Portobello Horticultural and Industrial Society. Along with the usual flowers, fruit and veg, homemade jams and chutneys, the show now also featured carving, fretwork, knitting, needlework and home baking.

The following summer was the Scotsman's first mention of an annual brass band contest in the park. Sixteen bands competed from Airdrie to Musselburgh. Between four and five thousand people paid for admission with 373 bandsmen taking part. The band from Carron Iron Works took first place and the Â£15 prize with a piece by Meyerbeer, conducted by Frank McDonald.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 24 Dec 2006, 13:28

The golfers still weren't happy about not being able to play on Saturday afternoons and raised a petition but the Public Parks Committee stuck by their decision, despite the protestations of Councillors Kellock and Innes, in order to allow young boys to play their games of football in safety.

In 1900 the annual brass band contest in Brighton Park was attended by over 2000 people. Carron Works were, on this occasion, beaten into second place by Musselburgh and Fisherrow Trades Band, who also walked off with the medals for trombone playing.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 24 Dec 2006, 21:26

For a relatively short time, tennis was played at Brighton Park. The courts are not shown on the 1896 OS map, appear on the 1908 map and have disappeared again by 1914. In May 1901 the Brighton Park team beat Waverley (second team) in gentlemen's doubles by 6 matches to 3.

It would seem that Portobello boasted at least two teams at this time, for on Saturday 30 May 'Brighton Park' were playing mixed doubles at Lochend, while Portobello were narrowly beaten by Dalkeith in a match played in Brighton Park.

By the time the 1902 season is underway, the club is described as being

in a particularly flourishing condition

and

the patron list is a lengthy and influential one.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 29 Dec 2006, 22:16

In April 1902 the Public Parks Committee agreed to provide a shelter and tool-house in Portobello Park at an estimated cost of Â£400. By July the cost had risen to Â£451.

The spring of 1902 was brightened considerably by the new City Gardener, Mr McHattie's spring flower planting, including the new tulip beds in Abercorn Park.

In Brighton Park, Musselburgh and Fisherrow were again victorious in the annual brass band contest.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 29 Dec 2006, 22:35

In 1903 the Public Parks Committee

agreed to recommend that the Corporation should take a lease of the Brighton Park, Portobello, and place it in the hands of the city gardener.

The tennis continued, with Brighton Park easily beating 2nd Waverley in gentlemen's doubles by 6 matches to 3.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 29 Dec 2006, 22:57

In October 1905, Thomas Adams, a printer, stood against Councillor Carmichael in Portobello Ward. If elected, one of his many aims was to persuade the Council to acquire Joppa Quarry and turn it into a rock garden.

The following year, under the Unemployed Workmen Act the Parks Committee was asked whether they had any public work that could be carried out by the unemployed. As a result, almost 200 found employment, including 16 at the tennis grounds at Brighton Park.

On 4 June 1906, it was reported that 1542 people (including 137 ladies) had played golf at Portobello Park in the preceding week.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 30 Dec 2006, 11:41

Many of Edinburgh's public parks, including Portobello Park, were let out for sheep grazing in Spring. In 1907 sealed offers were to be made to the City Chamberlain by 12 March. The cricket season resumed on Saturday 4 May.

In October, heavy rainfall caused extensive flooding in Edinburgh. Golfing was postponed at Portobello Park while, in what was to become Figgate Park, the clay quarry was flooded from the overspill of the Figgate Burn.

For the week ending Saturday 9 November a total of 448 golfers, including 74 ladies, played at Portobello. The total for the year was 47643, down slightly on 1906.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 30 Dec 2006, 12:13

In June 1910 tenders were invited for the contract to build a golf pavillion at Portobello Park to replace the old one. It opened the following year and remains virtually unchanged.

In March 1911 a new bye law was proposed which would make it unlawful to erect advertising hoardings so as to visible from public parks and promenades in Edinburgh, including Abercorn Park, Portobello Park and the Promenade. The General Billposting Company was among the objectors.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 30 Dec 2006, 15:07

A national coal strike in 1912 caused great hardship in Midlothian.

Police were concerned about unauthorised coal mining at Joppa Quarry and on the foreshore. Both men and women were engaged in this activity late into the night and appeared to be well equipped with around 200 picks along with helmets, lamps and buckets.

Reinforcements were called for the following day and the men were turned away, while the women and children were permitted to gather what they could by hand.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 30 Dec 2006, 15:44

For the year ending 1913, a total of 49165 rounds of golf were played at Portobello Park, resulting in revenue of Â£340 0s 5d.

However, the Victorian notion of 'leisure' and promenading around in pleasure grounds was over. It was now 1914 and the nation was at war:

Edinburgh Public Parks Committee agreed yesterday to grant a request by Captain Milligan, 6th Royal Scots, for permission to drill recruits in the Portobollo Park, and to fire blank cartridge.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 31 Dec 2006, 16:49

On Saturday 4 September 1915 a large crowd gathered in Abercorn Park to witness the unveiling of a memorial to the late Dr Hugh Dewar. The memorial took the form of a public drinking fountain of grey granite and bore a bronze medallion portrait of Dr Dewar.

The inscription reads:

This fountain has been erected in remembrance of Dr Hugh Dewar, Portobello, by his grateful patients and numerous friends, who deplore the loss in the prime of manhood of a kind friend and skilful and beloved physician. His quiet charity was known to the needy. 1866-1914.

Nine hundred and four of the doctor's patients had subscribed over Â£310 for the memorial.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 01 Jan 2007, 13:06

The Public Parks Committee carried out their annual inspection of Edinburgh's public recreation spaces on 20 April 1916.

Ample evidence was afforded of the fact that, despite the abnormal times, the recreative side of the citizen's life is not being overlooked by those in authority.

The recreational opportunities for a batallion of the Royal Fusiliers, who were stationed in the Portobello area, had also to be considered. Mr McHattie, City Gardener, was agreeable to the CO's request. Cricket could be accomodated at Portobello Park, while it was proposed to lay out two tennis courts in Brighton Park for their use.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 01 Jan 2007, 14:26

On 1 July 1920 the Parks Committee recommended the purchase of land at Rosefield at a cost of Â£1400 for the provision of a further recreation park in Portobello.

By the time the committee's annual inspection took place in 1922, Rosefield Cottage had been demolished, 700 roses had been planted and there were plans for six tennis courts.

On 16 May 1923 a gathering of over 300 people witnessed the official opening of Rosefield Park by Lord Provost Hutchison. Councillor J.D. Phillips Smith, convener of the Public Parks Committee, presided at the ceremony, noting that the neglected grounds of the old house had by now been transformed into a beautiful garden and it was a matter of deep regret that Mr McHattie had not lived to see the fruits of his labors. Many of the trees, walks and fragments of old walls had been preserved and, in addition to the tennis courts, an 18 hole putting course had been established.

Councillor Hay proposed a vote of thanks to the Lord Provost, and Mrs Brodie, wife of Mr W.H. Bridie, J.P., presented bouquets of carnations to Mrs Hutchison and Mrs Phillips Smith. Thereafter Mrs Hutchison struck the first ball over the new putting course, and that was followed up by a foursome in which Councillors Smith and Hay played Treasurer Stevenson and Bailie Sleigh.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 01 Jan 2007, 14:40

In the summer of 1928, as a result of reconstruction work on the Promenade, band performances normally given in the bandstand were transferred to Abercorn Park.

The Postal Military Band, The 4/5th Royal Scots Band, The Band of Leith Ex-Service Men, The Musselburgh and Fisherrow Trades Prize Band, The Royal Naval Volunteer Reserve Band, The British Legion Comrades of the Great War, The City of Edinburgh Band and The British Legion Federation Military Band all gave Saturday evening performances during July and August.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 02 Jan 2007, 20:52

On Sunday, 14th June 1931, Colonel William Robertson, V.C. chaired a parade in Abercorn Park. Portobello Boys' Brigade ex-Members' Band and Leith ex-Servicemen's Band provided the music. Portobello Boys' Brigade and the Portobello "Life Boys" were in attendance, along with contingents of "Old Contemptibles" and ex-Service Men's Branch Associations from various parts of Edinburgh and Leith.

The service, unfortunately, coincided with a thunderstorm and an extraordinary downpour of rain. The Colonel struggled manfully on, while ex-servicemen sheltered under their banners, though his address on Earl Haig and the British Empire was at times inaudible.

With the storm at its worst, Lady Haig intervened to suggest that the service be cut short.

Everybody then ran for it to find tramcars splashing through flooded streets and every doorway and passage crowded by people dripping-wet.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 04 Jan 2007, 16:24

From the Scotsman Letters Page, Saturday, 20th June 1931:

Opening of City Gardens

4 Joppa Gardens, Portobello, June 19 1931

Sir,â€”The question of acquiring for general use private gardens, like those between Queen Street and Heriot Row, will probably be decided by the Town Council, not only by weighing up such arguments as have already been advanced in your columns, but also by estimating the measure of success which has attended such a course when it has been followed elsewhere.

Here, in Portobello, we have three small public gardens, Abercorn Park, immediately north of the main thoroughfare, Brighton Park, in Brighton Place, and Rosefield Garden, in Rosefield Place. There can be no doubt in the mind of anyone who cares to visit these gardens whether they contribute to the pleasure of the residents both old and young. They are more easily accessible than the public park, where golf is played, and where consequently one is restricted to a limited time. A glance at those making use of the smaller parks or gardens shows at once that they are mainly elderly folks and young children. The only occasion on which one sees litter is after the annual "egg-rowin" at Easter. For the rest of the year the general condition of these gardens of ours is perfectly delightful.

Whether we are better behaved than the owner users of North Edinburgh or whether it is that the resources of the city gardener are greater than those of the gardeners responsible for the semi-private Queen Street Gardens, I do not know, but I believe in a competition we should win. It is mere logic to hand over as many gardens as possible to the city gardener for no other reason than that they would be better kept. In addition, of course, they would be more widely used.

It is a wilful perversion of the use of words to say that one can enjoy a garden looking through a railing. The spider of nursery fame was a sounder psychologist.

I am, etc Thomas Mitchell.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 10 Nov 2007, 14:08

In 1932 the municipal authorities purchased the Portobello Clay Pits with the intention of creating a new public park in Portobello.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 10 Nov 2007, 14:12

Extract from a letter to the Evening Dispatch from Captain C W Lamb on 12 September 1934.

Portobello is known mostly on account of it being a seaside resort. It has, however, many other attractions which are apt to go unnoticed by the majority of the visitors. It may even be said that many of the residents are unaware of the somewhat out of the way amenities which surround them on almost every hand.

For Instance, I don’t think there is another district of Edinburgh so well provided with public parks and gardens. In a Sunday evening walk not long ago I counted four, all within a few minutes walk of each other. They are not large parks or gardens, but they are exceedingly well-cared for and attractive. The largest of them is also a golf course, and although somewhat flat and open, it is in many ways a pleasant course to play on.

Tucked away in an unfrequented corner at the end of Brighton Crescent there are the charming little gardens of Rosefield. A little burn runs through the north-west corner of the gardens and is crossed by a rustic bridge where lovers may have all the solitude and sylvan scenery they desire. The gardens lead to a fine group of tennis courts which are available for public use.

On regaining Brighton Place one comes on a most refreshing and pleasing sight. Stretched out in crescent shape are the beautiful gardens which border Brighton Place on one side and East Brighton Crescent on the other. Although these gardens are open daily to the public, they are so well cared for and trim that they might be part of some private mansion. The beautiful clusters of variegated blooms set off the brilliant green of the lawn which forms the centre of the park.

Turning into the Joppa Road, a short walk eastward brings the wayfarer to another pleasant little park with quiet walks and flowering borders. So that for the tired visitor or the resident who takes an afternoon or evening ‘constitutional,’ there are plenty of pleasant retreats all within a small area where they may sit down and take their ease in an atmosphere of beauty and seclusion.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 10 Nov 2007, 14:24

Along with the Clay Pits, the Corporation had also acquired Joppa Quarry in 1933. By 1938 most of the quarry had been filled with screened refuse and the Council granted an application from the Scottish Womens Hockey Union for a lease on the ground, with the prospect of international games being played there.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 10 Nov 2007, 14:38

On Saturday, 30 April 1938 the new public park to be know as the Figgate Burn Recreation Area was officially opened by ex-Lord Provost Sir Thomas Whitson.

Sir Thomas Whitson recalled how, as Convener of the Housing and Town-Planning Committee, he had seen the devastation of the land caused by the clay-pit at Portobello and had suggested that it should be filled up and laid out with a view to enhancing the beauty of the place. He had further suggested that all the burns or water-ways within the city area should, so far as possible, have pathways alongside their whole length for the benefit of those who cared to take walks far removed from the danger and noise of motor cars.

A pathway the whole length of this burn could not be made at once, although large stretches of the burn were already in the hands of the Corporation and the State; but a very keen eye should be kept upon all the property through which the burn flowed, so that when there was a change of ownership the city should step in and acquire as much of the burn and its banks as would make such a beautiful walk possible. Indeed, under the powers conferred by the Town and County Planning Act 1932, it would be possible to insure that nearly the whole length of the burn would be kept open for all time.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 10 Nov 2007, 14:43

By October 1939 trench shelters had been constructed in Brighton Park and Abercorn Park, providing accomodation for a total of 800 persons.

Bob Jefferson · Post by **Bob Jefferson** » 10 Nov 2007, 14:47

In 1942 Scots papermaking businesses were experimenting with making paper from the common nettle.

Mr John T, Jeffrey, Superintendent of Parks, Edinburgh, stated yesterday that an acre and a half of nettles are being planted in Joppa quarry, which was formerly used as a "loom" for city refuse. He emphasised that the ground is not suitable for food cultivation. "No one must think," he said, "that we are curtailing any area that might be used for the production of food." The nettles which are being planted have been obtained from some of the woodlands within the city and from places where they are growing wild. '"We are to be allowed the cost of production," Mr Jeffrey added. "and if we get that, with a little profit for the ratepayers, all the better."